Overview

Costumes

National Costume of Greece
Amalia Town Dress The clothes worn in the towns of the Peloponnese became a court dress during the reign of Queen Amalia. In her honor, the dress is called the Amalia. This type of dress was also worn in the Athens area and became known as the National women’s costume of Greece.
Foustanella After the liberation of Greece in the nineteenth century, the men’s costumes of the Peloponnese took the form of the Foustanella. The long knitted tights were fastened at the waist with garters and a white skirt (foustanella) covered the thighs. Decorated waistcoats added elegance to the costume. They were worn by the military and later became the National costume of Greece.
Costumes of Thrace
Makra Gefera This dress belongs to the villages of Megaio and Mikro Zaloufi in Eastern Thrace. The costume consists of a cotton Chemise and a richly embroidered woolen dress which is worn over the chemise. A beautiful embroidered apron and coat (terliki) is worn in the winter. A brass belt (Corona) “aksi” decorates the costume. A red wool hat covered with a brown scarf finishes the outfit.
Men’s Sarakatsani The Sarakatsani people are cattle breeding nomads. The festive dress has the typical woolen foustanella worn by the people of Thrace. The skirt is joined to the waistcoat which is double breasted and heavily decorated with cording in intricate patterns. The men wear black woolen trousers (panovraki) and the younger boys wear white woolen leggings. A dark burgundy sash is worn and a woolen fur hat finishes the costume.
Women’s Sarakatsani The Thracian version of this women’s costume consists of the following pieces. Vest (katasarki) and a chemise which has heavily embroidered sleeves. The sleeveless waistcoat (tsamandani) and short pleated skirt are attached together and literally suspended. It also has a sleeveless jacket (polkaki). Worn around the waist is a girdle (zona) with a silver and leather buckled belt (kledotaria). The knitted socks consist of two parts, the (tsourapia) and (kontostourapia). The specially woven headscarf (bochos) is worn on the head.
Metaxades The foustani is a sleeveless single paneled dress with two openings in the bodice (kourfonlithres) to facilitate breast feeding. Another distinctive feature is the belt known as the (bakirozounaro) which has a bronze buckle known as the corona. These are known only to the region of Thrace and are made by famous goldsmiths of that area. The costume includes a headdress called a “bourboula” which is adorned with flowers.
Kavakli This costume was customarily worn in eleven villages of the Kavakli region. The older version of the chemise had blue sleeves and only the newer versions had white chemise including the sleeves. The single paneled dress (tsoukna) has ornate embroidery on the bodice and hem of the dress which is known as “korfos.” A wide sash is folded diagonally at the waist and held in place with the apron (pitsirka).The headdress includes a cap worn in a crown-like fashion and held in place with a kerchief. A second larger scarf is placed freely and secured. The bapka is an ornament which is worn on the forehead and consists of 5-15 coins.
Karoti, Evros
Women’s Costume This is a very colorful costume with a white cotton chemise. The black wool sleeveless dress is decorated with embroidery and has “koufoulithres” which are openings at the top for women to nurse their babies. The black wool apron has geometric designs of embroidery and fringe at the hem. The waist is belted with a buckle called a “korona.” The Headpiece consists of one yellow floral which is worn underneath a white fringed triangular scarf. Long multicolored ribbons hang in the back to signify that the girl is single. The footwear are called terlikia and are made of red wool and decorated with sequins and beads. Also worn are hand-knitted leggings with decorative patterns.
Men’s Costume This costume has a black wool “vraka” pant which is common to this area. It is complimented by a long sleeved black wool jacket. This jacket has been decorated with embroidery and multi-colored cording at the collar. This would be worn during holidays and festive occasions. A simple undecorated jacket or vest would be worn for everyday wear. The head is covered with a long rectangular scarf wrapped as a turban and decorated with a beaded pin with a cross design.
Island of Cyprus
Women’s Costume The plainer version of the Karpasian sayia was worn in the Paphos district until recently. It was made of striped cotton cloth (alatzia) with horizontal moustres and simple embroidered decoration around the dickey and cuffs. Pantaloons are also worn and show beneath the sayia and they are richly decorated with tydkiotiko embroidery.
Men’s Costume There are very few regional differences in the male costume of Cyprus. The basic costume has pleated baggy pants (vraka) which are found in some form on all the Greek Islands. There is also a waistcoat (sleeveless vest called a yileko) and a jacket (zibouni). The vraka is dyed black for older men and blue for younger boys. The shirt is made of a cotton material for everyday wear and a silk shirt is worn on festive occasions. The vest is highly decorated according to the region.
Costumes of Macedonia
Drymo Woman’s Costume On the fertile plains of Thessaloniki are three prosperous villages: Liti, Melissohori and Drymo. The dress worn in these three villages is almost identical. The women of this region of Greece preserved their old style of dress until the Second World War. The undershirt is called kondo and made of two different materials. The sleeves and bodice were made of hand woven wool while the rest of the garment was cotton. The length of a second shirt was worn three fingers above the ankle. The sayia (woolen coat) was the most expensive garment they wore and was made by local tailors. The ends of the coat were richly embroidered at both ends (kapaklikia) and folded inwards.
Episkopi, Emathia Men’s Costume The summer dress and festive costume worn in Episkopi is called Poukamiso or Foustanella. In winter the poukamiso is tucked into black woolen pants called salvari. The festive shirt is highly decorated with colorful embroidery which is rarely seen on other male garments. The sash worn is of dark burgundy for young men and black for the elders.
Hassia Women’s Costume The costume of Hassia was worn in almost twenty villages scattered through Hassia on the Kamvounia Mountains between Aliakmon and Saradaporo. This costume is still worn by some as a bridal and festival costume with some modifications. All the various materials are woven from wool or cotton and embroidered with fine wool and silk threads. The women of this region continue to spin and dye with natural plant substances such as roots, bark, soot, and onion skins.
Costumes of Evia
Woman’s Festive Costume This is a festive costume made of a variety of materials and a wealth of jewelry. It is made up of a sleeveless cotton tunic with a multi colored embroidered hem, a silk jabot-trachilia, pure silk sleeves with lace. The white woolen coat known assigouna has black twisted silks at each seam and back. The headgear with coins and ornaments called beramia is covered with a white silk shawl called botia. The apron is of velvet with floral embroidery.
Limni Evia Peasant Costume This is the everyday version of the women’s attire from the town of Limni. The dress is made of white cotton and has a vest with a border trim which also decorates the dress. This dress was made in 1939.
Island of Chios
Pyrgi, Chios Women’s Costume This festive costume has a sleeveless white poukamiso and a white short bodice-like garment with long sleeves and wide cuffs decorated with embroidery of bright colors. The dress, known as pristida or asproudi has a pleated back panel of 110 pleats called samaraki. The breast is concealed by two large scarves as it is considered improper to show the body form. The headdress consists of a stiff cap called the stoungi and has a kerchief draped around it. The headdress worn by brides is decorated with tassles and hat pins.
Pyrgi, Chios Men’s Costume Throughout the Island of Chios the traditional Island vraka is worn with the exception of the Pyrgi region. The Pyrgi costume is known as rasozipouna. It has close fitting trousers, the sourelo and a chemise poukamiso which is decorated with white horizontal pleats. The collar and sleeves are decorated with multi-colored embroidery and open work on the fabric known as ploumia. A wide wool sash is worn at the waist and covered with a triangled scarf which is fastened on the sash. The costume also includes a brown wool sleeveless vest called the gouneli. A neck scarf and knit cap finish off this costume.
Costumes of Epirus
Ioannina Men’s Peasant Costume The white trousers known as bourazana panovraki are similar to the Macedonian vraka and are a characteristic feature of the costume. The sleeveless waistcoat is used for daily wear. There is also a waistcoat with long sleeves attached to the shoulders and is worn at festive occasions. The feet are shod with tsarouchia. A small black wool felt hat called skoufi is worn on the head. This costume is worn in villages near Ioannina and also by the Sarakatsani and Vlachs in other regions.
Ioannina, Epirus Girl’s and Boy’s Costumes
Metsovo, Epirus Woman’s Festive Costume This costume is made of finely worked materials such as brocades, and silks and is very impressive by its simplicity. The dress has a pleated skirt, open neckl ine and long sleeves which are decorated with black trim. A black waistcoat is worn underneath and shows at the open neckline and sleeves. A sleeveless black wool coat vest is worn over the dress. It is trimmed in red wool on the outer edges and back and is of simple design. The headwear consists of false hair braids and a triangular silk scarf which is trimmed with tatted lace.
Zagori, Epirus Women’s Costume This is a bridal coat “Flokatata” which is highly decorated. Twisted red yarn and cording form a border and decorate the back panels of the coat. The narrow side panels have a beautiful spiral design. This coat is unlined but has yarn threads added inside the coat for warmth.
Pogoni, Epirus Women’s Costume The region of Pogoni is spread over valleys and plateaus in the northern part of Epirus. All the ladies wore plain white dresses even as old women or widows. They did not change their attire, which is rare in Greece. The undergarment was made of white wool. Over this was a white cotton blouse trimmed in crochet lace on the collar. A white woolen apron was worn over these garments along with a segouni which was a sleeveless coat undecorated by any embroidery. It was held in place with a red silk cording and a black sash wrapped in a particular way. The headpiece was a complex affair and needed a special “dresser” to wrap it correctly. A highly decorated pin was worn by brides attached to the headpiece. The bride wore red embroidered slippers and white stockings. The wedding crowns were borrowed from the church as very few bought their own for fear of being cursed for not using the crowns from the church.
Costumes of the Ionian Islands
Island of Corfu Boy’s Costume The male costume of Corfu is worn throughout the island and has a calico cotton shi rt. A vraka pant is fashioned from a light fabric called “mouseli.” A sash called “fountas” is worn around the waist. The costume includes one or two waistcoats, the “Koutsomana” and the “viaketa.” The latter is sometimes flung over the shoulder. The customary red wool hat has been replaced in later years with a straw hat. The feet are shod with tsarouchia, a characteristic accessory of the costume.
Island of Zankythos Girl’s Costume This girl’s costume is typical peasant-style attire. It is simple in nature and made of cotton fabrics which match the climate of the regional island. A full sleeved white cotton blouse with some embroidery at the neckline has cotton lace to decorate the sleeves and neckline. A gathered navy blue skirt compliments this costume and has a burgundy vest decorated with gold buttons. An apron of multi-colored stripes and a floral design is added. A petticoat is the undergarment of choice and lace shows below the hemline of the skirt. A white scarf covers the head to finish the look of the costume.
Island of Cefalonia Girl’s and Boy’s Costumes These girl’s and boy’s costumes are very simple in design. The girl’s costume consists of a white blouse, gathered skirt and petticoat. A navy blue vest trimmed in yellow offsets the rest of the costume. A floral cotton apron adds color to this costume. The various colors used for the skirts can be greens, navy blues or burgundy. Most of the costume is made of cotton with the exception of the vest which is made of high quality wool. Children under the age of twelve usually wore floral wreaths in their hair and after that age they wore a long rectangular headscarf to cover their hair. The boys costume is a typical island vraka costume. It has a double breasted wool vest with decorative buttons and vraka trousers which are emphasized with a bold stripe stocking. Black leather shoes are worn with the costume. A white wool knit stocking hat is worn. The design was borrowed from sailors who traveled from island to island selling their merchandise to the islanders. A white wool sash is wrapped at the waist to finish this costume.
Costumes of Crete
Men’s Cretan Vraka “Haniotiko” Design The traditional Cretan men’s costume is fashioned from blue felt and sewn by special tailors. The distinctive feature of this costume is the vraka which is a wide baggy trouser. The older type vraka had a longer sela, which is the part which hangs in back, reaching down almost to the ankles. A sleeveless waistcoat, the “yileki” and a sleeved jacket the “mindani” are worn one over the other. The zonari sash is 8 metres long and wrapped around the waist. A silver knife, the “basalis,” is tucked into the sash. The “kousteki” chain for the watch is an indispensable accessory. The boots, which are called stivania, can be either black or white. A black knitted kerchief with fringe is wrapped on the head. A cape the “kapo” is flung freely over one or both shoulders and completes the costume. This model is wearing his costume with a black shirt and the vest is a “Haniotiko” design.
Men’s Cretan Vraka “Irakliotiko” Design This second version of the men’s Cretan vraka is similar in every way except the style of the vest. This version is a double-breasted “Irakliotiko” design. He is also wearing a white shirt and black boots which are also authentic.
Women’s Anogeia Costume This costume was worn in the region of Anogeia, in the Mylopotamos district. The “sartza,” a red draped half skirt, has given its name to the whole costume and is worn at the back over the white cotton bloomers and chemise. The white cotton apron is wove n in the loom with ornamental designs. The costume includes a “kondochi,” which is a jacket of felt usually in dark colors, and the “skoufoma” a red kerchief decorated with a cotton fringe and tied around the head. A red wool sash is worn around the waist and a knife with silver sheath, the “basaliki” is tucked into the belt indicating that she is either betrothed or married. The neck ornaments include the “botonia,” a cross with “abrakamboi,” and coins.
Women’s Sfakia Costume This women’s costume is from the region of Sfakia and consists of a wide sleeved chemise made of woven cotton which is trimmed in lace. It is covered by a gathered skirt in red. This color is of the more modern version. Older costumes used muted colors of olive green, and burgundy. The vest is heavily embroidered with gold designs and is unique as the sleeves are detachable, with gold buttons to hold them in place when worn. A red crepe scarf covers the head in a turban-type wrap to cover the hair completely. Gold jewelry is worn to decorate the bodice.
Island of Skyros
Women’s Costume This costume of the 18th century is marked with traditional Byzantine features. Very valu able fabrics and jewelry lend it an elegance which is apparent throughout. The costum e consists of an under tunic with silk embroidery, a brocade silk waistcoat “mentenes,” a skirt of gold silk material, and a sleeveless cloak of expensive imported materials which is adorned with fur at the front of the vest. The head is adorned with a richly embroidered headscarf and decorated with jewelry.
Men’s Costume The men’s costume is that of a shepherd and is simple in design using a variety of fabrics. It consists of a silk shirt with wide sleeves and is decorated with lace at the seams. The trousers, “aratzidella,” made of a blue colored material are produced by special craftsmen. A double breasted and tight fitted waistcoat is worn over the vraka. It is decorated with a rich embroidery design of boats and mermaids. It is made of a cotton material with lace and multi-colored tassels. A cotton and fringed cumber bun is worn over the waistcoat and vraka. The costume is completed by a print kerchief worn on the head. The stockings of white all-wool material and leather sandals finish this costume.
Island of Rhodes
Embona, Rhodes Girl’s Costume This festive costume, from the mountain villages of Rhodes, is worn to the present day . This has kept the tradition alive on the island. It consists of a white woven “poukamissa” with silk embroidery at the jabot, sleeves and hem. It has a pleated dress of black cotton silk and is decorated with rich multi-colored braid. The burgundy knitted belt sash has fringes and is wound around the waist two times over the hips. High leather boots that cover the leg completely are worn with this costume. The headgear consists of a white cotton cap with coins and a scarf with a flower print is worn over the cap.
Sporades
Women’s Costume of Trikeri This bridal and festive costume is characteristic of the Sporades Islands and is very impressive in its harmony and in the detail of the embroidery and wealth and variety of the materials used. This particular version of the costume is an everyday dress of cotton and simpler fabrics. This dress is usually worn with approximately seven ruffled petticoats which make the skirt of the dress and tunic stand out away from the body. This jumper dress is made of black cotton with a floral print. A belt with a buckle adorns the waist. The sleeveless dress is pleated and decorated at the hem with a contrasting fabric. On the everyday version there is little embroidery. An apron of cutwork lace decorates the costume and is worn as a triangle. A yellow scarf with a floral print is worn on the head.
Pontus
Men’s Costume This costume consists of a black wool vraka pant with a drawstring waist band. It also can be worn with a white cotton shirt for a young man or a black knit shirt for an older man. A black wool vest is added which is lined in black cotton. The vest is decorated with black trim and gold metallic buttons. The long sleeve jacket is of black wool which is also decorated with trim and lined in green satin. A matching green sash is added at the waist. The headgear is reminiscent of the bishop’s headpiece. It has gold trim and a gold tassel as decoration and is normally tilted to the right side of the head. When mourning the death of a family member the headpiece is left hanging and is not tied. Black boots finish the costume.
Women’s Costume This noblewoman’s costume is from the 18th century. The detail of the design and the luxurious materials give evidence of the cultural and economic development of the area. It consists of a silk tunic with fine lace and silk breeches. A long open-fronted kavadi consists of a brocade fabric with a pattern design. A black velvet waistcoat, zipouni, is worn over the kavadi. The waist is bound with a fringed girdle. The headgear consists of a small cap, a tapla, and is decorated with coins. A married woman would wear a yellow printed scarf over the tapla.